Smoke Signals: Capturing Porto’s philosophy in a glass

Mar 16

While we’re all aware of the adage “less is more,” putting it into practice is another story (ref. trip packing, jeans, sneakers). It’s a philosophy, however, that wasn’t lost on Bonhomme Beverage Director Jesse Filkins when he began crafting the cocktails for Porto, specifically his take on an Old Fashioned, Humo Y Sal.

Each ingredient and technique needed to go through a tough selection process.

Nomad Outland Whisky, for example, was chosen for its provenance; born in Scotland, it is aged in sherry barrels in Jerez, Spain, which provides a connection to Porto’s muse (the restaurant focuses on seafood from Spain as well as Portugal) and adds distinct flavor. To connect to the restaurant’s prolific usage of seaweed, demerara is infused with nori, adding floral notes, subtle seawater salinity and the “sal” of the drink’s name.

“I wanted to incorporate all aspects of Porto — from concept to design to kitchen,” says Jesse of his inspiration for the classic cocktail. Initially, however, he tried to do too much, using several liqueurs and various techniques. To get the drink right, he needed to change course. “This became a creation process of subtracting,” says Jesse. “Less became more.”

To capture Porto’s distinct interior design, the cocktail is served on a cedar wood plank made from leftover wood used in the construction of the restaurant’s exterior and interior of its atrium area. A promise of afterwork El Guapos, Jesse’s delicious cocktail served next door at sister-spot Beatnik, provided ample inspiration for the added work of cutting the planks.

At Porto, the live-fire cooking taking place in its open kitchens offers a wonderful show and infuses the restaurant with lovely smoky aromas. To tap into that experience, Jesse flames cherry wood chips on top of the board along with a citrus peel and then quickly places a rocks glass over it. Tableside the smoke-filled glass is turned over (“humo” means “smoke” in Spanish). A large, slow-melting sphere-shaped ice cube is placed inside the glass and the drink is poured over it.

*Bonhomme Beverage Director Jesse Filkins*

On Porto’s cocktail menu from the beginning, Humo Y Sal has earned many dedicated fans. “When I was working at Beatnik, a guest came over to tell me, ‘I had to shake the hand of the guy who made the best Old Fashioned I’ve ever had,’” says Jesse. “What I like best about this drink is that it represents what Porto stands for: an innovated take on amazing classic flavors and traditions.”